September 17, 2015

Winemaker's "Heaven": San Francisco & Beautiful Napa Valley

September 17, 2015/ Winnie Hung

Amizetta Vineyards, St. Helena, California

Lucky for me, my recent trip to San Francisco and Napa Valley was much more than just another delightful getaway with memorable epicurean delights!

A special invitation with special friends

It began when I received an invitation from an old friend and his wife to attend their wedding anniversary in San Francisco. I was thrilled. Ken and I have been friends since we were teenagers. Years ago I missed his wedding in San Francisco because of my father’s sudden illness. While other friendships grew apart due to distance and other commitments, Ken remained a loyal friend, and one of my few true food and wine aficionados.

I have discovered that as a food aficionado and a culinary travel specialist, I can only truly share my passion for eating and cooking with a small number of ‘foodie’ friends in my life; ones not hampered by trends, personal preferences and lifestyle choices, or medical reasons such as food allergies or restrictions. But except for my epicurean parents (both now deceased), Ken is my most important culinary inspiration. We certainly were both well versed in the spirit of gourmet dining and “wine-ing” at a very young age! On previous visits, Ken took me to some of the finest and exciting French and Japanese bistros and restaurants.

Seven Hills (Nob Hill) - Antipasti: American Kobe Beef Carpaccio, Grilled Monterrey Bay Squid

Seven Hills (Nob Hill) - Pasta: Raviolo Uovo, Tagliatelle with Braised Lamb, Chitarrini Neri with Rock Shrimps and Bay Scallops

Seven Hills (Nob Hill) - Flat Iron Steak

Dining in San Francisco

Undeniably, the restaurant scene in San Francisco is quite simply explosive. It’s always been this way; I knew it since my very first visit over 15 years ago before I considered myself a food aficionado. If you’ve read my recent Paris blog post, I talked about the ethnic food scene and how diverse dining options continue to be a huge movement in cities around the world. Many major cities—including San Francisco—have really ‘nailed’ the whole concept right from the start. A wonderful city, San Francisco has always delivered its culinary options with great taste, style, creativity and sophistication.

On the first night of my recent trip, my friends surprised me with an excellent Italian bistro - a farm-to-table dining experience at Seven Hills, located in the trendy Nob Hill area. It’s so wonderful to be able to share a great dinner with old friends who can relate to your childhood and your parents.

We shared various dishes: antipasti—American Kobe Beef Carpaccio, Grilled Monterrey Bay Squid; followed by delicious pasta dishes—Raviolo Uovo (which I have made twice since returning home from my trip), Tagliatelle with Braised Lamb Sugo, Chitarrini Neri with Rock Shrimp, and Bay Scallop. And as if we did not order enough food, we enjoyed American Kobe Flat Iron Steak and topped off the evening with double desserts for a finale.

Pastry Chef at Ritz-Carlton plating our desserts

The anniversary feast

The anniversary celebration dinner took place at the elegant Ritz Carlton. The menu was designed to match the same banquet served at the couple’s wedding. The ingredients for every course were carefully selected and pre-tasted by the hosts a few weeks ahead of the event.

To kick off the celebration, guests were served various platters of scrumptious h’orderves – Lobster Medallions, Pancetta-wrapped Glazed Shrimp, Grilled Lamb Chops (my favorite), Southern-style Crab Cakes and Smoked Salmon Blini. These were all delicious!

The official dinner started off with Lobster Bisque with Puff Pastry on top; followed by Terrine of Sonoma Farms Guinea Hen with Smoked Eggplant; and then Beef Tenderloin & Maine Lobster Tail. The dinner wrapped up with exquisite duo of desserts, which I was too stuffed to enjoy! The evening was highlighted by wine pairing from a private collection of wines generously shared by my friend from his own wine cellar. The live classical piano performance put on by friends of the hosts added elegance and a warm, relaxing atmosphere to the special occasion.

San Francisco neighborhoods are as diverse and fascinating as the dining scene. While I was not able to visit all the unique areas this trip, some of you might be interested in the following: Haight-Ashbury, Hayes Valley, Lower Haight, Cole Valley, Mission District, Noe Valley, Nob Hill, Marina, North Beach, Soma, Sunset, Russian Hill, Union Square, Chinatown, Japantown, Upper Market, Sea Cliff, Panhandle/NoPa, Fisherman’s Wharf, Financial District, Sixth Street.

If you have limited time , make sure you visit the Ferry Building Marketplace for awesome food with locavore flare; enjoy the best Dungeness crab and chowder in the Bay area; and try a few eateries on your next trip: Seven Hills (www.sevenhillssf.com), Cockscomb (www.cockscombsf.com), The Progress (www.theprogress-sf.com), The Perennial (www.theperennialsf.com).

A perfect guide for a perfect corner of the world

The second part of the trip was equally pleasurable. To me, the appeal of Napa Valley is its romantic, beyond natural beauty. I constantly marvel at the stunning views, perfect climate and the spectacular Californian wineries, which boast international fame and reputation. With 500 plus wineries in the region and counting, how can one resist traveling until you’ve toured and tasted at least a quarter of them!

I admit, this time I left trip planning until the last minute. I also decided it was more appropriate (not being a teenager any longer!) to make my own travel arrangements instead of depending on friends to chauffeur me around! Was I ever so grateful to find Kent, a personal tour guide from Squire Livery (www.squirelivery.com). Kent came through for me while I was scrambling for a seasoned guide (also secretly screening for someone with a huge personality!) In addition to Kent’s in-depth knowledge about the region and its wineries, his superior customer service, genuineness and efficiency completely exceeded my expectations and the industry standard (and I have worked with many high-end tour operators and private guided companies in my industry).

Kent and I both understand the true definition of customer service. We shared stories about the importance of providing the utmost experience for clients, building rapport with guests, estate winery owners, industry specialists and other private tour companies. We both agreed that the bottom line for operating your own business is really about meeting wonderful people, sharing your knowledge and building relationships—benefits far more satisfying than just making a profit.

Francis Ford Coppola Inglenook Vineyards

Covert Estate (Azur Wines & Nicholson Jones)

So many vineyards, so little time!

Prior to my trip, I had forwarded my ‘wish’ list to re-visit some of the well-known, commercial wineries:Francis Ford Coppola Inglenook Vineyards, Opus One Winery, Robert Mondavi, Beringer Vineyards, Castello di Amorosa, Domaine Carneros, Artesa Vineyards & Winery, Hess Collection.

Kent added to my list the most frequently requested wineries for many first-time visitors: Sterling Winery, Cakebread Cellars, Chateau Montelena Winery and Caymus Vineyards. But because of Kent’s sound knowledge, expertise and personal connections with the wineries, I was also introduced to lesser-known wine-makers and boutique family-owned wineries. Together we visited estate owners and wine-makers at Amizetta Vineyards, Covert Estate (Azur Wines & Nicholson Jones), White Rock Vineyards and Yates Family Vineyard. At each winery, I was given a private tour around the property and wine caves, and offered private tastings of their refined wines.

Of course, many of these wines are not found in the liquor stores of large metropolitan cities in the US or Canada because these wineries do not produce a large quantity of their wines. Visiting such wineries made my trip even more special and educational. I also noted, after speaking with one of the Estate owners, that it takes a specialist like Kent to help the boutique wineries not just stay in business but flourish.

Dining at Morimoto Napa (Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto)

ZuZu Tapas - Flat Iron Steak from Brandt Ranch, Gambas Ajillo

Dining in Napa Valley

Well, we cannot be just drinking wine without indulging in fine food. I mean; does bad food even exist in San Francisco or the Napa Valley? I had three more memorable dining moments during this Napa trip - the ultra posh and swanky Morimoto Napa, owned by famous Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto; and Zuzu, famous for Spanish-inspired tapas and paella. Other exceptional recommendations include Cape Diem Wine Bar in downtown Napa, an upscale-casual wine bar setting serving shared, small food plates; Bottega in Yountville, serving rustic Italian fare; and Ad Hoc in Yountville, serving family-style, casual, comfort food. My only disappointment—I did not leave myself enough time to secure a reservation at the award-winning Michelin Star establishment French Laundry with Chef Thomas Keller. (I will keep staring at his French Laundry cookbook until my next visit). At his other restaurant Bouchon in Yountville, serving French bistro traditional fare, is also very good.

There are several people I would love to thank for my recent trip to San Francisco and Napa Valley. This trip would not have happened without my partner Tom, old friends Ken and Vinny, new friend Kent and new business connections with Squire Livery Tours, and of course all of the wineries I visited. Until next time, California!

August 21, 2015

How small plate dining and big ethnic flavors are transforming gourmet Paris (Part II)

August 21, 2015/ Winnie Hung

This spring I returned Paris for a couple of weeks of dining, eating and shopping. Instead of writing about the expected places that everyone visits, I’ve put together a list of my favorite spots, including outdoor and indoor markets, cheese and pastry shops, casual bistros, newer, trendy spots as well as some cultural highlights.

Winnie’s Guide to Paris avec savour faire

I hope you have the opportunity to try out some of the recommendations I’ve put together for places to eat, shop visit and enjoy.

Eateries/Restaurants

Brasserie Barbès

The restaurant finally opened its doors this April after a two-year refurbishment. The brasserie’s four floors each have their own distinct style. The sprawling rooftop is one of Paris’ best. Try their raw sea bass Carpaccio, crispy eggs à la Comté cheese (or Gruyère), duck shepherd’s pie, or cod purée with chicken and fries. Nice decor, inventive menu and good atmosphere with an awesome rooftop. What more can you ask for? Open 8am until 2am every day. http://www.brasseriebarbes.com/

A Noste

Top Chef JulienDuboué’s new creation at the heart of his Basque address near Bourse offers street-food, small plates, and top-notch tapas in a trendy bistro and tapas bar setting. Just a small sample of what I’m talking about when I say small plates and diverse eating include: risotto balls with goat cheese and piquillos, duck spring rolls with Thai sauce, marinated salmon Haitian style, tomatoes and passion fruit smoothie and braised pork burger. http://www.a-noste.com/

Clamato

Michelin Star chef, Bertrand Grétrand of Septime Group, serves up ever-changing fresh seafood tapas paired with great wines at this good-looking oyster and fish bar on trendy Charonne Street in the Bastille area. All dishes are served in tapas portions, put together with the catch of the day. Order rillettes of mackerel, raw cerviche of black mullet, zucchini with eel, smoke and fennel seeds. I wrapped up my delicious meal with an American style latte, just the way I like it, specially prepared by the very capable barista. http://www.septime-charonne.fr/

Fish la Boissonnerie

This former fish market is now converted into a modern wine bar/restaurant. It’s a busy restaurant with very good food and a friendly English-speaking owner with his entire, equally friendly English-speaking staff (all either English or American employees). Enjoy great choices in vegetarian and mainly fish dishes, and a well-selected wine list. Try character-full dishes such as hake with fregola, fish soup with mussels, and mackerel with harissa. Located in the Latin Quarter/Odéon area.

Rosemary Gastropub

A new concept—the gourmet-pub—serves up traditional English dishes in a trendy setting. Go for a snack with beer on draught where happy hour can last for several happy hours. English snacks include: Yorkshire pudding with mousse cheddar, fish fingers with brown sauce, and scotch egg with piccalilli(a British relish made with various chopped vegetables, seasoned with mustard and turmeric.) The gourmet bar snack idea definitely works for me! Located in the Marais area. http://rosemarygastropub.com/

Écume Saint-Honoré

I eat shellfish all the time, rarely entirely raw, except for oysters and certain type of sashimi. At this cozy poissonnerie (fish and seafood restaurant), the menu says if you order a platter with a smile, they’ll see what they can do. So I flashed my biggest smile! The staff then put together a platter of assorted shellfish just for me—raw calms (various types and sizes), mussels, scallops, oysters (all raw!) I also enjoyed taramosalata (Greek and Turkish salty fish roe dip). Everything was top-notch fresh served by happy staff with a humor. They showed me photos and stories about the restaurant that have appeared in Japanese magazines and newspapers as well as on Facebook pages—all posted by Japanese visitors who wrote about their wonderful experience there.

Le Lazare

If you’re taking the train, it’s worth a stopover at a Michelin-3 star chef bistro—Eric Fréchon’s rail station Gare Saint Lazare. Despite a few negative reviews I read about the service, I was excited about dining there. I mean, service can be something I am willing to overlook when it comes to exceptional food with a famous chef in the kitchen.

My assumptions were right. The food was undoubtedly authentic and flavourful. The filets de sole Dieppoise was simply one of the best French fish dish I’ve ever eaten. The most raved about Paris-Deauville dessert was outstanding. The restaurant also serves breakfast with authentic French, homemade croissants and café crème, and an afternoon snack at 4 pm with brioche and hot chocolate. What a great idea for the commuters, we can all use a French quick gourmet fix every so often! As for the service, it was fine. http://lazare-paris.fr/

Cobéa

Cobéa’s scrumptious prix-fixe menu has made this Michelin star restaurant so highly-acclaimed. Changed monthly, the menu features fine dishes such as duck foie gras, bonito fish, veal, sweetmeats, John Dory fish, Iberico pork, aged cheese, strawberry and chocolate desserts— all artfully presented with an intimate decor. The gastronomical lunch and dinner are delivered by two accomplished chefs Philippe Bélissent and Jérôme Cobou, both who share a rich and diverse taste in their cooking.

This was another highpoint in gourmet French dining. Highly-recommended! http://cobea.fr/en/

Tokyo Eat

I am a returning customer to Tokyo Eat, not only because of its inventive cuisine. Tokyo Eat is the restaurant of Palais de Tokyo, one of my favourite places to visit and re-revisit. This is truly an architectural wonder, with cutting-edge creative displays surrounding the structure and out-of -the-ordinary contemporary exhibitions in the museum.

With menu items that consist of Japanese and contemporary French fusion, I particularly like how the food menu is presented at this ultra modern restaurant. First of All gives a selection of pressed juice noting all their healthy ingredients. Before denotes appetizers and salads; Inside Only are food items you can order only when dining inside. (This actually is where I would prefer to sit, but it stays closed when the weather is nice outside). While is a list of main courses, including the only vegetarian dish, Tokyo vegeto. I started with a carrot/beet/fresh mint pressed juice (a tasty way to refresh the palate), followed by a big bowl of French green bean and Paris mushrooms with lemon dressing, and finally, a generous portion of veal confit with mash. I’ve had many duck confit before but never veal. It was simply outstanding—the meat so moist and tender—perfectly cooked! http://www.palaisdetokyo.com/fr/lifestyle/le-tokyo-eat

Kunitoraya 2

It’s almost impossible to find an authentic, high-quality and affordable Japanese restaurant anywhere in the world, including Paris. Lunch at most of the up-scale authentic Japanese restaurants is usually more affordable but with a smaller selection of food. Lunch at Kunitoraya 2 in the Palais-Royal area serves quick udon, chill tonkatsu, small portion of vegie and shrimp tempura, and simple, basic donburi, starting from €10. At night, food gets much more fancy but exceptional. There is a seven tasting course where they serve poached oyster with caviar, a ‘sea’ jelly, plum-marinated bass Carpaccio, and veal sweetbreads with truffles. (It’s making me very hungry right now just thinking about it). And it all takes place in a well-designed, modern café style space. http://kunitoraya.com/

Cucuzza Ristorante

This is an ultra trendy hangout in the Batignolles area. Two of their star pizzas are: Valeria d’ Estate, with cream of truffle, ricotta, panned pleurottes mushrooms, slivers of truffle and truffle oil; and Vespa, with cream of artichoke, arugula, prosciutto. The ultimate choice of salad is the squid-fennel, Sicilian pimento salad. http://cucuzza.fr/

Miss Ko

Located in the upscale Champs-Élysées area, this restaurant enjoys a funky, vibrant color theme, decorated by designer Phillipe Starck. The fusion food menu is reasonably priced, but not unlike many restaurants in Paris— the bill can add up if you order too many fancy cocktails from their extensive list. I rather enjoyed my steamed fish with Tom yum sauce, which has a flavorful coconut curry taste. The restaurant had a very relaxing atmosphere with a diverse crowd. Looking around, I observed many families and groups. I would not consider their interpretation of a Japanese special or maki rolls authentic, but to be fair, the restaurant is described as fusion, not a Japanese.

http://www.miss-ko.com/

Paris Open Air Markets featuring local produce

Gourmet Paris Food Shops & Food Markets (outdoor/indoor)/les grandes epiceries

Parisians love to go to one of the over 75 outdoor neighborhood markets on the weekend to find fresh produce. These are typically set up two to three times a week in different neighborhoods. A growing number of upscale specialty indoor markets are also popping up all over Paris. While their products are generally much pricier, the selection is often too good to pass up!

Causses

Seriously, I think every neighbourhood should have a local grocery shop like Causses. Here you’ll find 100% natural, regional products to fill your basket, e.g. locally grown fruits and vegetables, truffles, cheese, ceramic pots of olives, dry fruits, gourmet preserves, smoked cured meat and ham in addition to a wine cellar and a little spot where you can bottle up your own freshly squeezed orange juice. The owners and his team work hard to bring in products free of industrial additives and preservatives. And let me just say, not all hams are created equal. These were really the best! (Once you’ve experienced hams at these Paris markets, you’ll never want grocery store ham again!

Marché des Enfants rouges

This market delighted me as well as many out-of-towners because of its variety and bustling ambience. It’s also a popular spot for locals who grab a bite to eat at the different ethnic stands, i.e. Italian, Japanese, Lebanese, French, Moroccan. Enjoy fish and chips, burgers, cheese, fish, a flower shop and a vintage photo and postcard shop.

La Grande Épicurie de Bon Marché

Truly a temple of all things food and wine, La Grande probably remains as one of my grandest, most high-end epicurean shopping (and eating) experience. Thousands of products dazzle foodies in this amazing, giant store.It has the largest and most incredible selection of fresh cheese and charcuterie (sopressata, paté, ham, sausages, cold meats), fresh seafood, breads, pastries, foie gras, fresh fruits and vegetables.You’ll also find sushi, prepared food, an entire floor dedicated to wine cellar, and many exotic items such as caviar, truffle oil and truffle foie gras in beautiful jars, Persian salt and other rare spices. Outrageously huge and impressive.

Gilles Vérot

Gilles Vérot originally comes from the Loire Valley, and from a family of charcutiers (delicatessen-style butchers). His epicurean shop offers a very large selection of charcuterie, hams and patés as well as other gourmetitems such as rillettes (similar to paté), galantines (de-boned stuffed meat), crépinette (flattened sausage parcel) cooked and cured meats and healthy nibbles. Vérot ultimately brought his years of expertise to the United States at the Bar Boulud and DGBG in New York City, headed up by Chef Daniel Boulud’s (a Lyonnaise restaurateur now settled there).

Le Comptoir de la gastronomie

Not only does this gourmet delicatessen and boutique sell the very best in France gastronomic products: fresh foiegrasd’oie (goose liver), andouillete (white sausage), magret de canard fume (smoked duck breast), sel de guerande (Guerande sea salt);you can also sit at the terrace, inside the deli or restaurant to enjoy the authentic food. The small menu features specialty items such as foie gras carpaccio, pan-fried goose liver, cassoulet and steak tartare. The foie gras cappuccino was melt-in-your-mouth delicious. It compliments several of the Loire Valley wines they have on their wine list.

Oro bianco mozzarella cafe and Mmozzara

If you crave fresh mozzarella, sample a variety at both these shops. Each receives fresh daily shipments from the best farms. Oro is a sit-down café where you can savor the cheese on site, or order to go; while Mmozzara has just a small area where you can sample on a small plate, served with tomatoes and rocket (arugula) greens.

Lafayette Gourmet & Maison (Market Place/Delicatessen)

I’ve eaten in the Market Place/Delicatessen a couple of times on the lower ground floor during my stay in the Opera area. The Market Place has a diverse selection of prepared food stations and eateries. It seems to specialize in Asian gourmet goodies. There's a pretty impressive Chinese dim sum station, even a Japanese pastry maker. The bulk spice department is a feast for the eyes and senses. The gourmet department, on the ground floor, also serves French and world cuisine.

Galeries Lafayette decided to combine its famous food and drink department, Lafayette Gourmet, with its home department, Lafayette Maison, all under one roof. The spacious new building spanning 8,900 square yards and 5 floors officially opened in September 2014.

Specialty Cheese Shops:

Oh, artisan cheese, bon fromage—I love them all— mild, medium, rich, salty, savory. Why would anybody want to eat processed cheese when there are literally hundreds of wonderful cheeses to choose from? Cheese is one of most versatile food item in the world but deeply rooted in its French heritage. From Lyon now back in Paris, I have probably tasted, sampled and purchased an assortment of finest French cheese of my lifetime.

Shopping at these independent cheese shops is fun. The staff is always knowledgeable and passionate, and want their customers to sample their products. Whether you are a cheese buff or not, everyone should visit at least once at one of these cheese shops in Paris. This is one of the many classic French food customs. I have taken a few suggestions from Parisians and visited some of the best independent specialty cheese shops during my visits to the city. Each cheese shop has its own character, style, presentation and specialty products:

I have noticed, however, that the French are accustomed to very strong cheese. They often will recommend the “stinkiest” and “strongest”of cheeses almost as if they want the pleasurable memories of their famous strong cheese taste to linger on. My partner Tom loves strong blue cheese but I usually stay within mild to medium.

Fromages et Ramage (22 rue Ramey)

Fromagerie Laurent Dubois (97 rue Saint-Antoine & 47 ter Boulevard Saint-Germain www.fromageslaurentdubois.fr)

Barthélémy (51, rue de Grenelle)

Quatrehomme (62, rue de Sèvres www.quatrehomme.fr)

Fromages et Ramage (22, rue Ramey)

Bakeries

You can’t indulge in good artisan cheese without having good bread. But have you ever had one of the flakiest, most buttery and moist, melt in your mouth croissant au beurre for breakfast in North America? And why does it seem so hard to find brioche outside of France?

Du pain et des idées

According to Christophe Vasseur, the best baker in Paris, there are 1300 boulangeries (bakeries) in Paris. Three Michelin star chef, Alain Ducasse at Plaza Athénéé serves the famous pain des amis. It is basically a ‘plain’ bread, but the taste and depth of it far from plain—the crust is crunchy and incredibly flavorful, with tastes that reveal a woody, smoky flavor. The inside is quite different, soft with a pleasing nutty flavor. (It’s even better with Bordier butter!) The décor of the bakery is delightful and rustic, filled with antiques dating back from the original boulangerie days in 1889. Also enjoy chausson aux pommes (apple turnovers) and la mouna (brioche), escargots(yes, breakfast ‘snail’ pastries), croissants and pain au chocolate (chocolate wrapped inside a croissant-like pastry).

Douce (Sweet) Indulgence

I have always had a preference for more savory flavors than sweet. In fact, since I was little, I have eaten and drank so few sweets that I’ve never had a tooth cavity. Except when I was completing my food and nutrition course while studying in the United Kingdom, I’ve never baked a single dessert or anything remotely sweet in my life. And when I entertain at home, I prepare savory dishes for my guests but when it gets to the final course, I tell them, sorry I don’t make desserts. Instead, I offer fruit, ice cream or something I picked up from a store.

But that’s all changed since I visited France. Everywhere you turn, you see a patisserie, chocolatier, macaroon shop, sweetshop, cakes, desserts and lots more. What makes these treats so sinful is that many are not an ordinary macaroon or chocolate shop. Many seem to be some kind of a big success story, accompanied by an impressive huge family history that led to the creation of a maestro, award-winning specialty shop. One can easily understand why it’s so terribly hard to resist these sweet temptations.

Until not too long ago, I was still mesmerized by an over-the-top presentation of trolleys and platters of desserts brought to me at Paul Bocuse L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges in Lyon. I was so overwhelmed and surprised by the selection process I had no idea which dessert to choose!

Back in Paris, my sweet tooth temptation was totally sinful. I’m sure I visited Angelina Tea House Paris too many times, ate too many desserts and drank too much hot chocolate there.

La Pâtisserie des Martyrs

Owner/Chef Sébastien Gauderd is a 2012 pastry chef winner. At his old-fashioned looking pastry shop, some specialties include rum cake filled with pastry cream (des baba au rhum), napoleon/custard slice (des mille-feuille), classic French pastry based torte(des saint-hornorés), coffee pastry filled with cream (des religeuses au café), chocolate tart (des tartes au chocolate), and pound cake with candied fruit (fruits confit).

Crêperie Breizh

While crêpes (think, very thin pancakes) originate in Brittany, a region in the northwest of France, their consumption is widespread in France. A traditional crêpe with chocolate sauce, chantilly (sweet whipped cream) and almonds is an absolute delicious treat. At Crêperie Breizh, you can order both savory and sweet. The prices were very fair and an English menu is offered at the café. A couple of favorites include a savory buckwheat crêpe with artichoke, ham and Gruyere cheese, and a salted caramel and dark chocolate buckwheat crêpe.

L’Éclair de Génie

Éclair is the classic French pastry with a glaze and crispy pastry on the outside, with a soft and creamy inside. Pastry chef and owner, Christophe Adam, has transformed and modernized this classic French treat into a dessert that is fresh and appealing— dressed in stunning rainbow colors with fun flavours like salted butter caramel, orange pistachio, yuzu caramel, and apple maple syrup.

Pâtisserie Lignac

This shop is the creation of a well-known Pastry Chef, Lyril Lignac, also the owner and chef of a Michelin Star gourmet restaurant, Le Quinziéme. Lignac created a workshop, which provided cooking and pastry classes in 2010. He is also a TV host of a culinary show. His desserts, sweets and pastries are inventive and succulent e.g.baba with bourbon vanilla, la tartecitron (crisp shortbread with lemon cream), raspberry tart, la caraïbe (chocolate mousse with crisp cocoa biscuit). You can also get organic breads (traditional and grain baguette), special loafs (with olives and tomatoes, cheese, figs and white chocolate, thyme and lemon). There are breakfast and lunch offers with a choice of salad or sandwich, éclair or flan pastry.

Maison Servant

This traditional, family-owned chocolatier and confiseur opened its doors in 1913 in the Auteuil neighborhood. While the shop is known for candy assortments from all over France, many of the chocolate specialties are still made in house at this location. Maison Servant is also known for a great variety of coffees and teas, fruit jellies, glace nuts, jams and honeys, crunchy chocolate almonds and pistachios, caramelized truffles, chocolate orangettes, and fruit liqueurs.

Meert

Meert is a chocolate and confectionery, a pastry shop, restaurant and tea Room. It makes all its chocolates, jams, fruit jellies and other sweets on site. Meert has also gained a reputation for its appealing, delicious pastries. I go there for its renowned waffles (Monsieur Meert took credit for inventing the recipe for a flat vanilla waffle filled with sugar, butter and vanilla from Madagascar.) Under new management since 2004, other surprising waffle flavors have been introduced: pistachio and morello cherry, chocolate and orange, raspberry and Séchouan pepper, blackcurrant and violet.

My pick of interesting places around the city

Musée Rodin & Garden

You will marvel at this museum’s Parisian rocaille architecture and its sculpture collection on view, especially once you learn about the background of the museum—the Hôtel Biron. Originally built between 1727 and 1732, the museum was officially opened in 1919 and listed as a historical monument in 1926. Since then, Hôtel Biron and its grounds have since undergone major renovation and restoration. The garden is equally spectacular, stretching over three hectares, featuring a rose garden, ornamental garden and a marble gallery.

Palais de Tokyo

Ever since I was young, I’ve noticed the strong influences of Japanese and French on each other’s culture, an influence that shows up in their cuisines, desserts, fashion, accessories, textiles, art, design, photography and architecture. The Palais building is dedicated to showcase modern and contemporary creations and exhibitions in art, design, cinema, video, literature, fashion and dance. Visit the designers’ exhibitions for a few hours, after that, stop by Tokyo Eat (see earlier note!)

Musée Picasso Paris

Picasso Museum reopened its doors in October 2014 at the heart of Marais. Here you can rediscover the life of Picasso, his early works before his blue and the pink period, the birth of cubism and his militant works around 1936. Housed in the former Hôtel Salé and built between 1656 and 1660, this is a stunning building. Afterwards, take a tour of the trendy block surrounding the Museum.

Palais Royal Gardens and the Arcades

Stroll through the beautiful gardens and historical arcades, occupied by many well-known designer shops: Marc Jacobs, Rick Owen, Stella McCartney, Didier Ludot (vintage consignment), Serge Luten (Master Perfumer).

Fondation Louis Vuitton

Designed by American architect Frank Gehry, his recent museum project is an architecture marvel dedicated to contemporary artistic creation. The first artistic expression of la Fondation Louis Vuitton, “Crystal Palace” is located in the Jardin d’Acclimatation, at the outer edge of the Bois de Boulogne. Geometric curves and lines mirror the shapes found in the garden. It looks like sails, and it looks like a boat, like a whale, like a crystal palace—all in the middle of an explosion!

Fondation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent

I do know a few things here and there around the fashion world. When I went to see the subtitled film about Yves Saint Laurent with my fashionista friend Danny, I was quite moved and intrigued by the designer’s complexity. He was, as I imagine most designers are, beyond eccentric—intelligent, creative with a great understanding of women’s style, elegance and sophistication. Of course, all those strong intuitions are reflected in his own couture design.

Visiting the foundation provides highlights of Yves Saint Laurent’s haute couture garments and accessories as well as a graphic, photographic, and audiovisual collection of many thousand archives references. The exhibition “Yves Saint Laurent 1971: The Scandal Collection”, captures the essence of the spring/summer collection of 1971.

Musée Galliera

Much as I love food, I can certainly take time out to appreciate fashion.This museum is located on the opposite side of Palais de Tokyo. After opening in 1895, the Palais Galliera served a number of different purposes before the City of Paris made it a fashion museum in 1977.The Palais Galliera only presents temporary exhibitions and does not offer permanent displays. (Between every exhibition, the museum is closed to the public.) Currently, the museum is exhibiting the great lady of haute couture, Jeanne Lanvin (March 8th to August 23rd, 2015). This first exhibition of its kind devoted to Lanvin (1867-1946), it features over a hundred models from the amazing collections.

Musée Gustave-Moreau

I am charmed to discover the home and workshop of symbolist painter, Gustave Moreau, featuring 20,000 drawings, paintings, watercolors, and sculptures. All are on display in an historic 19th century setting, located at the artist’s apartment and work area on the top floor.

Passage Verdeau & Passage Jouffroy

Built in 1847, this was the last of the passages built as picturesque covered arcades or passageways to attract vintage collectors in Paris. Visit many of the original shops for books, toys, cameras, as well as small boutiques and a gourmet tea salon. An intimate vintage hotel “Chopin” is located inside Passage Jouffroy.

Centre Commercial

The sustainable concept store is a relatively new idea in North America although not so new to Europeans. Shopping at Centre Commercial means you’re supporting sustainable activities. The founders really wanted to combine what’s close to their hearts: fashion with artistic projects and environmental concerns. Bravo! The 1,620 square feet shop only features clean and green fashion labels from France, Denmark and Great Britain. You also can buy books, magazines and DVDs.

British Shop

I make a habit of picking up a few souvenirs for our tenants when I’m away because they take such great care of our cat, Oscar. Since I brought them French souvenirs from my previous visit, this time I looked for something different. The traditional British store specialized in English porcelain, Wedgewood, china, mugs, elegant utensils and many other gift items. While I was shopping for Jessica, I was tempted to get the entire collection of ‘Miranda Kerr’ Royal Albert English tea set for myself (after all, I already own a cake stand and a few plates of the same collection).

Collette

After more than 10 years in operation, the three-floor, 8,000 square feet concept store is still considered a Paris cult hip shop, devoted to ultra a trendy designs, unusual and extraordinary fashion and accessories. This deluxe boutique hosts an incredible selection of merchandise from designer clothes, toys, international magazines, cosmetics and beauty supplies, fun small gift items and their divine “water bar,” serving more than 100 brands of bottled water.

Boutique Hotels with Gastronomic restaurant:

Hôtel Le Bristol Paris / Epicure (Chef: Eric Frechon)

www.lebristolparis.com/eng/gastronomy/epicure/

Saint James Paris (Relais& Châteaux) /Le Restaurant (Chef: Virginie Basselot)

www.saint-james-paris.com

Le Burgundy Paris/Restaurant Le Baudelaire (Chef: Pierre Riothier)

www.leburgundy.com/en/restaurant-le-baudelaire

Hotel de Vendôme/Le 1 Place Vendôme(Chef: Josselin Marie)

www.hoteldevendome.com/uk/restaurant-gastronomique-place-vendome-paris.php

Hôtel Particular Montmartre/Restaurant (Chef: Thibaut Spiwack)

www.hotel-particulier-montmartre.com

Paris Rankings among 2015 the World’s 50 Best restaurants:

L’Arpege(no. 12) www.alain-passard.com

Le Chateaubriand (no. 21)www.theworlds50best.com/list/1-50-winners/Le-Chateaubriand

L’ Astrance (no. 36)www.theworlds50best.com/list/1-50-winners/LAstrance

Alain Ducasse du Plaza Athenee (no. 47)www.alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/alain-ducasse-au-plaza-athenee

Day Excursions

There is plenty to keep you occupied in Paris alone. However, if you are fond of taking day trips, go for the following:

Giverny and Versailles Castle

You visit the house of Claude Monet, the founder of Impressionism, and discover the wonderful garden created by the Impressionist painter, with its flower-lined paths, ponds and famous Japanese bridge. Next your tour takes you to the Château de Versailles.

Burgundy (Bourgogne – Vézelay – Bazoches - Chablis)

Start your day with a visit to the Château de Bazoches, built in the 12th century. The morning continues with views of the Morvan scenery, including the Vézelay hill. Visit Vézelay and its basilica for history and art. In the afternoon, discover Chablis and the Colline des Grands Crus (hill of great wines) opposite the village. Take in the wine cellar of Laroche and end the day with a wine tasting.

Loire Valley Castles

Enjoy a wonderful day in the Loire Valley, stopping off at three of the many castles (chateaux): Chateaux Chambord, Cheverny and Chenonceau. Witness the glamour and grandeur of French royalty and aristocracy, and gain insights in these Renaissance riverside castles.

Bruges

During your stay in Paris, take the opportunity to discover the capital of West Flanders in northwest Belgium. Once you’re at this picturesque medieval town with cobbled lanes and famous canals, you’ll understand why the city is known as the “Little Venice of the North”.

Apartment rental

While I have not used the rental service provided by Airbnb, many travel bloggers and travel writers I know have done so with success. If you are flexible with your travel dates, open to rent directly from individuals, or stay with local hosts in Paris, visit www.airbnb.com

French Language

Here’s my take on it—French is a tough language to learn but none of the locals expect English-speaking visitors to speak fluent French or have the perfect pronunciation. However, learn some basics ahead before your trip (I hired a French teacher to give me a few mini lessons). Learning to say some common phrases in restaurants, stores, smaller retailers and metro stations really goes a long way (many of these employees outside the major tourist stops or Central Paris do not speak English at all). The French really appreciate the effort. I actually ended up getting a lot of smiles and compliments for my amusing French.

And that’s a wrap. I know I will return to Paris for more epicurean delights. For my next visit, I will definitely add shoe shopping to the agenda.

Au revoir et à bientôt Paris. Merci pour ces merveilleux souvenirs qui resteront graves dans ma mémoire pour les années à venir.

(Good bye for now, Paris. Thank you for the wonderful memories that will last me for many years to come!)

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There are many other great ways to see France. Would you ever consider taking a bistro biking tour, a cooking tour, a private-guided tour, or an enchanting River Cruise for itineraries include Burgundy & Provence, Paris & Normandy, Bordeaux, Vineyards & Chateaux.

Please feel free to drop us a line at info@redlettergetaways.com, we will be delighted to provide you with a few ideas to plan your next getaway.

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August 10, 2015

How small plate dining and big ethnic flavors are transforming gourmet Paris (Part I)

August 10, 2015/ Winnie Hung

I ended my last blog on Avignon and Provence with “who can ever have too much of Paris?” Having now returned to Paris, exploring different areas and pockets throughout the city, I continue my reflections on a city that loves food and is gradually embracing more diversity in its cooking.

As I sit here at the Jardin des Tuileries (Tuileries Garden) watching the ducks swimming around and soaking up the sun, I’m thinking, how do I want to sum up my travel experience in Paris? After a few visits to this romantic city, what other places do I want to discover? Where do I start? What can I talk about that hasn’t already been written or discussed too often? And how would I want to do things differently another time? Oh, we are still talking about food here, right? Those were the questions I have for myself.

View from my Paris flat in 1 st Arrondissement (Palais-Royal/Vendome/Saint-Honore)

Vivre comme un pariesan (Living like a Parisian)

It’s hard to get a different perspective or gain insight into another culture without experiencing what it is really like to live, day-by-day, in that culture. So instead of being a bit too pampered at a nice, fancy hotel, I decided to reach out to a couple of my contacts in Montreal and Lyon so I could arrange a stay in their apartments, located in central Paris. For a short while, I’d be living like a Parisian in an historical art deco apartment building, able to explore different local neighborhoods, ride the Metro or get around on foot, shop at the best local farmers’ markets and cheese shops, and cook and enjoy local fresh ingredients.

I don’t claim to be an expert—eating and food shopping as a foreigner in gourmet Paris. But in order to fully research my piece, my goal was to cover a lot of ground by visiting as many places in different areas as possible, and then share my delightful epicurean discoveries.

Everyday food in Paris

We all know the French eat well—period. (I spoke previously about why I visited Lyon, being a huge fan of French cuisine and someone who enjoys eating, gourmet cooking and organizing culinary trips for other food and wine lovers.) One of my delights in Paris was knowing that without deliberately looking for a specialty food store, I could always walk into any average patisserie or general food shop and pick up fresh baked goods, exquisite pastries, decent quality cheese, smoked salmon, even escargots. And when I did make a special trip to the gourmet epicurean shop, the quality of just basic food, including local produce, was simply overwhelming: butter, crème fraîche, French-style ham and cold cuts, specialty cheeses, croissants, strawberries, asparagus, assorted mushrooms, tomatoes, zucchinis and brioche (okay, maybe not so basic!).

As a diehard gourmand, the gastronomy experience truly doesn’t get more satisfying than that! And who can overlook the wide assortment of quality French wines at such reasonable prices? I sure wish I could walk to my corner store in my neighborhood and pick up a decent bottle of Rosé anytime I want. I even found a good selection of my favorite Angelina specialty chocolates and cookies in a store on the very street where I was staying. It saved me from having to pick up some last minute souvenirs at the famous Angelina Paris tearoom in the Louvre/Vendome area, during my final crunch time before my plane left.

Culinary diversity and small plate dining

It’s ironic. When in North America, I’m always looking for good quality, authentic French places to eat; now I am in Paris again, and I’m looking for some eclectic, diverse places to explore that stretch beyond my beloved gastronomic French culinary experience.

The French enjoy dining out—restaurants are always packed. But while Paris has plenty to offer when it comes to food, I do feel through my various visits that their cuisine in eclectic and diverse eating somewhat falls short. Diverse dining options of different cultures definitely exist but in terms of the authentic flavors, quality and creativity, Paris is lacking when compared to other major cities, i.e. New York, Toronto, San Francisco, Vancouver, Melbourne and London. I was particularly disappointed in the lack of quality Asian/fusion cuisine. While it is pretty hard to beat cities like San Francisco, Vancouver and Toronto, I did take note of a handful of very exceptional Japanese restaurants throughout Paris.

The small portion, tapas-style, shared food concept is springing up around the globe. It’s a new favorite way for many to eat, with smaller portions but a greater variety. For me, this trend in the food scene is nothing new. One of my all-time favorite food is dim sum, which has been around for centuries. More recently, world-renowned Spanish tapas have become a new gourmet sensation, and in doing so, hugely influencing the concept of small plates dining. The introduction of the Japanese izakaya and robata, Portuguese tapas, Mexican tapas, Italian small bites and a relatively new player to scene, Hungarian tapas treats, all focus on the same idea.

Many years ago, I took a friend from Argentina to an upscale Chinese dim sum restaurant for lunch. When I was placing an order for eight steamed baskets just for the two, she questioned what I was thinking. I said to Diana, “You are my guest and I want to introduce to you a dim sum feast! Just enjoy, if we have leftovers, we’ll have a doggy bag meal!” Not forgetting when it was my turn to visit her country, I was also served a feast—the concept in Argentina being a very big piece of barbecued meat with potato or fries. Yes, it’s a very different culture and that’s why eating and food travel have become a celebration of cultural diversity.

Fine dining is alive and well in France

Recently I’ve read various articles published in several cities about whether or not fine dining is dying or dead. Personally, I do not think fine dining is dead—far from it. But some cities definitely go through phases.

In Paris and the rest of France, there are many upscale restaurants with good linens, beautiful china, silverware and crystal, all demonstrating that the fine dining business is successful and going strong. Personally, I still very much like traditional dining, including the whole process of getting dressed up, sitting in a beautiful, elegant dining room in a formal setting for several hours while enjoying the ambience and a quiet conversation with your dinner companion(s). In that respect, I think I am still old school. My recent dining experience at Paul Bocuse L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges in Lyon, proves that when you make the right choice, fine dining is always memorable and very much alive. I had to make my reservation weeks ahead of my trip and the restaurant filled up fast!

The bottom line—the dining scene is always evolving but quality food is quality food. As the ethnic food scene continues to be a huge movement in cities around the world, ethnic diversity is influencing Paris’ culinary experience—but slowly!

So instead of presenting you with a list of best restaurants in Paris, I thought it would be more enticing to visit some of the fun, casual, trendy and up-and-coming eateries. I also wanted to shop at different gourmet food shops, specialty shops, and outdoor and indoor markets. To be honest, I was just excited about spending more time exploring the city while I carry on indulging myself with epicurean delights!

May 27, 2015

France for the Soul and the Serious Foodie

May 27, 2015/ Winnie Hung

Picture shown is Fourvière Hill, where the Basilica "Notre-Dame de Fourvière" is located; perched on a hilltop above old Lyon, it's also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

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