Winemaker's "Heaven": San Francisco & Beautiful Napa Valley

Amizetta Vineyards, St. Helena, California

Lucky for me, my recent trip to San Francisco and Napa Valley was much more than just another delightful getaway with memorable epicurean delights!

Fisherman's Wharf

A special invitation with special friends

It began when I received an invitation from an old friend and his wife to attend their wedding anniversary in San Francisco. I was thrilled. Ken and I have been friends since we were teenagers. Years ago I missed his wedding in San Francisco because of my father’s sudden illness. While other friendships grew apart due to distance and other commitments, Ken remained a loyal friend, and one of my few true food and wine aficionados.

I have discovered that as a food aficionado and a culinary travel specialist, I can only truly share my passion for eating and cooking with a small number of ‘foodie’ friends in my life; ones not hampered by trends, personal preferences and lifestyle choices, or medical reasons such as food allergies or restrictions. But except for my epicurean parents (both now deceased), Ken is my most important culinary inspiration. We certainly were both well versed in the spirit of gourmet dining and “wine-ing” at a very young age! On previous visits, Ken took me to some of the finest and exciting French and Japanese bistros and restaurants.

  Seven Hills (Nob Hill) - Antipasti: American Kobe Beef Carpaccio, Grilled Monterrey Bay Squid

Seven Hills (Nob Hill) - Pasta: Raviolo Uovo, Tagliatelle with Braised Lamb, Chitarrini Neri with Rock Shrimps and Bay Scallops

Seven Hills (Nob Hill) - Flat Iron Steak

Dining in San Francisco

Undeniably, the restaurant scene in San Francisco is quite simply explosive. It’s always been this way; I knew it since my very first visit over 15 years ago before I considered myself a food aficionado. If you’ve read my recent Paris blog post, I talked about the ethnic food scene and how diverse dining options continue to be a huge movement in cities around the world. Many major cities—including San Francisco—have really ‘nailed’ the whole concept right from the start. A wonderful city, San Francisco has always delivered its culinary options with great taste, style, creativity and sophistication.

On the first night of my recent trip, my friends surprised me with an excellent Italian bistro - a farm-to-table dining experience at Seven Hills, located in the trendy Nob Hill area. It’s so wonderful to be able to share a great dinner with old friends who can relate to your childhood and your parents.

We shared various dishes: antipasti—American Kobe Beef Carpaccio, Grilled Monterrey Bay Squid; followed by delicious pasta dishes—Raviolo Uovo (which I have made twice since returning home from my trip), Tagliatelle with Braised Lamb Sugo, Chitarrini Neri with Rock Shrimp, and Bay Scallop. And as if we did not order enough food, we enjoyed American Kobe Flat Iron Steak and topped off the evening with double desserts for a finale.

The Anniversary feast

Pastry Chef at Ritz-Carlton plating our desserts

The S.F. MarketPlace - Far West Fungi

The SF MarketPlace - SF Fish Company

The anniversary feast

The anniversary celebration dinner took place at the elegant Ritz Carlton. The menu was designed to match the same banquet served at the couple’s wedding. The ingredients for every course were carefully selected and pre-tasted by the hosts a few weeks ahead of the event.

To kick off the celebration, guests were served various platters of scrumptious h’orderves – Lobster Medallions, Pancetta-wrapped Glazed Shrimp, Grilled Lamb Chops (my favorite), Southern-style Crab Cakes and Smoked Salmon Blini. These were all delicious!

The official dinner started off with Lobster Bisque with Puff Pastry on top; followed by Terrine of Sonoma Farms Guinea Hen with Smoked Eggplant; and then Beef Tenderloin & Maine Lobster Tail. The dinner wrapped up with exquisite duo of desserts, which I was too stuffed to enjoy! The evening was highlighted by wine pairing from a private collection of wines generously shared by my friend from his own wine cellar.  The live classical piano performance put on by friends of the hosts added elegance and a warm, relaxing atmosphere to the special occasion.

San Francisco neighborhoods are as diverse and fascinating as the dining scene.  While I was not able to visit all the unique areas this trip, some of you might be interested in the following: Haight-Ashbury, Hayes Valley, Lower Haight, Cole Valley, Mission District, Noe Valley, Nob Hill, Marina, North Beach, Soma, Sunset, Russian Hill, Union Square, Chinatown, Japantown, Upper Market, Sea Cliff, Panhandle/NoPa, Fisherman’s Wharf, Financial District, Sixth Street.

If you have limited time , make sure you visit the Ferry Building Marketplace for awesome food with locavore flare; enjoy the best Dungeness crab and chowder in the Bay area; and try a few eateries on your next trip: Seven Hills (www.sevenhillssf.com), Cockscomb (www.cockscombsf.com), The Progress (www.theprogress-sf.com), The Perennial (www.theperennialsf.com).

Domaine Carneros Winery

A perfect guide for a perfect corner of the world

The second part of the trip was equally pleasurable. To me, the appeal of Napa Valley is its romantic, beyond natural beauty. I constantly marvel at the stunning views, perfect climate and the spectacular Californian wineries, which boast international fame and reputation. With 500 plus wineries in the region and counting, how can one resist traveling until you’ve toured and tasted at least a quarter of them!

I admit, this time I left trip planning until the last minute. I also decided it was more appropriate (not being a teenager any longer!) to make my own travel arrangements instead of depending on friends to chauffeur me around! Was I ever so grateful to find Kent, a personal tour guide from Squire Livery (www.squirelivery.com). Kent came through for me while I was scrambling for a seasoned guide (also secretly screening for someone with a huge personality!) In addition to Kent’s in-depth knowledge about the region and its wineries, his superior customer service, genuineness and efficiency completely exceeded my expectations and the industry standard (and I have worked with many high-end tour operators and private guided companies in my industry).

Kent and I both understand the true definition of customer service.  We shared stories about the importance of providing the utmost experience for clients, building rapport with guests, estate winery owners, industry specialists and other private tour companies.  We both agreed that the bottom line for operating your own business is really about meeting wonderful people, sharing your knowledge and building relationships—benefits far more satisfying than just making a profit.

Francis Ford Coppola Inglenook Vineyards

Robert Mondavi Vineyards

Amizetta Vineyards

White Rock Vineyards

Covert Estate (Azur Wines & Nicholson Jones)

So many vineyards, so little time!

Prior to my trip, I had forwarded my ‘wish’ list to re-visit some of the well-known, commercial wineries:Francis Ford Coppola Inglenook Vineyards, Opus One Winery, Robert Mondavi, Beringer Vineyards, Castello di Amorosa, Domaine Carneros, Artesa Vineyards & Winery, Hess Collection.

Kent added to my list the most frequently requested wineries for many first-time visitors: Sterling Winery, Cakebread Cellars, Chateau Montelena Winery and Caymus Vineyards. But because of Kent’s sound knowledge, expertise and personal connections with the wineries, I was also introduced to lesser-known wine-makers and boutique family-owned wineries. Together we visited estate owners and wine-makers at Amizetta Vineyards, Covert Estate (Azur Wines & Nicholson Jones), White Rock Vineyards and Yates Family Vineyard. At each winery, I was given a private tour around the property and wine caves, and offered private tastings of their refined wines.

Of course, many of these wines are not found in the liquor stores of large metropolitan cities in the US or Canada because these wineries do not produce a large quantity of their wines.  Visiting such wineries made my trip even more special and educational.  I also noted, after speaking with one of the Estate owners, that it takes a specialist like Kent to help the boutique wineries not just stay in business but flourish.

Bouchon Bistro, Yountville

Dining at Morimoto Napa (Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto)

Morimoto Napa - Sea Urchin Carbonara

ZuZu Tapas - Flat Iron Steak from Brandt Ranch, Gambas Ajillo

Dining in Napa Valley

Well, we cannot be just drinking wine without indulging in fine food. I mean; does bad food even exist in San Francisco or the Napa Valley? I had three more memorable dining moments during this Napa trip - the ultra posh and swanky Morimoto Napa, owned by famous Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto; and Zuzu, famous for Spanish-inspired tapas and paella.  Other exceptional recommendations include Cape Diem Wine Bar in downtown Napa, an upscale-casual wine bar setting serving shared, small food plates; Bottega in Yountville, serving rustic Italian fare; and Ad Hoc in Yountville, serving family-style, casual, comfort food. My only disappointment—I did not leave myself enough time to secure a reservation at the award-winning Michelin Star establishment French Laundry with Chef Thomas Keller. (I will keep staring at his French Laundry cookbook until my next visit). At his other restaurant Bouchon in Yountville, serving French bistro traditional fare, is also very good. 

There are several people I would love to thank for my recent trip to San Francisco and Napa Valley. This trip would not have happened without my partner Tom, old friends Ken and Vinny, new friend Kent and new business connections with Squire Livery Tours, and of course all of the wineries I visited. Until next time, California!

How small plate dining and big ethnic flavors are transforming gourmet Paris (Part I)

Jardin des Tuileries

 I ended my last blog on Avignon and Provence with “who can ever have too much of Paris?” Having now returned to Paris, exploring different areas and pockets throughout the city, I continue my reflections on a city that loves food and is gradually embracing more diversity in its cooking.

As I sit here at the Jardin des Tuileries (Tuileries Garden) watching the ducks swimming around and soaking up the sun, I’m thinking, how do I want to sum up my travel experience in Paris? After a few visits to this romantic city, what other places do I want to discover? Where do I start?  What can I talk about that hasn’t already been written or discussed too often?  And how would I want to do things differently another time? Oh, we are still talking about food here, right? Those were the questions I have for myself.

View from my Paris flat in 1 st Arrondissement (Palais-Royal/Vendome/Saint-Honore)

Vivre comme un pariesan (Living like a Parisian)

It’s hard to get a different perspective or gain insight into another culture without experiencing what it is really like to live, day-by-day, in that culture.  So instead of being a bit too pampered at a nice, fancy hotel, I decided to reach out to a couple of my contacts in Montreal and Lyon so I could arrange a stay in their apartments, located in central Paris.  For a short while, I’d be living like a Parisian in an historical art deco apartment building, able to explore different local neighborhoods, ride the Metro or get around on foot, shop at the best local farmers’ markets and cheese shops, and cook and enjoy local fresh ingredients.

I don’t claim to be an expert—eating and food shopping as a foreigner in gourmet Paris. But in order to fully research my piece, my goal was to cover a lot of ground by visiting as many places in different areas as possible, and then share my delightful epicurean discoveries.

Everyday food in Paris

We all know the French eat well—period. (I spoke previously about why I visited Lyon, being a huge fan of French cuisine and someone who enjoys eating, gourmet cooking and organizing culinary trips for other food and wine lovers.) One of my delights in Paris was knowing that without deliberately looking for a specialty food store, I could always walk into any average patisserie or general food shop and pick up fresh baked goods, exquisite pastries, decent quality cheese, smoked salmon, even escargots.  And when I did make a special trip to the gourmet epicurean shop, the quality of just basic food, including local produce, was simply overwhelming: butter, crème fraîche, French-style ham and cold cuts, specialty cheeses, croissants, strawberries, asparagus, assorted mushrooms, tomatoes, zucchinis and brioche (okay, maybe not so basic!).

As a diehard gourmand, the gastronomy experience truly doesn’t get more satisfying than that!  And who can overlook the wide assortment of quality French wines at such reasonable prices? I sure wish I could walk to my corner store in my neighborhood and pick up a decent bottle of Rosé anytime I want.  I even found a good selection of my favorite Angelina specialty chocolates and cookies in a store on the very street where I was staying.  It saved me from having to pick up some last minute souvenirs at the famous Angelina Paris tearoom in the Louvre/Vendome area, during my final crunch time before my plane left.

Clamato - 80 rue de Charonne

Culinary diversity and small plate dining

It’s ironic. When in North America, I’m always looking for good quality, authentic French places to eat; now I am in Paris again, and I’m looking for some eclectic, diverse places to explore that stretch beyond my beloved gastronomic French culinary experience.

The French enjoy dining out—restaurants are always packed. But while Paris has plenty to offer when it comes to food, I do feel through my various visits that their cuisine in eclectic and diverse eating somewhat falls short. Diverse dining options of different cultures definitely exist but in terms of the authentic flavors, quality and creativity, Paris is lacking when compared to other major cities, i.e. New York, Toronto, San Francisco, Vancouver, Melbourne and London. I was particularly disappointed in the lack of quality Asian/fusion cuisine.  While it is pretty hard to beat cities like San Francisco, Vancouver and Toronto, I did take note of a handful of very exceptional Japanese restaurants throughout Paris.

The small portion, tapas-style, shared food concept is springing up around the globe.  It’s a new favorite way for many to eat, with smaller portions but a greater variety.  For me, this trend in the food scene is nothing new. One of my all-time favorite food is dim sum, which has been around for centuries.  More recently, world-renowned Spanish tapas have become a new gourmet sensation, and in doing so, hugely influencing the concept of small plates dining.  The introduction of the Japanese izakaya and robata, Portuguese tapas, Mexican tapas, Italian small bites and a relatively new player to scene, Hungarian tapas treats, all focus on the same idea.

Many years ago, I took a friend from Argentina to an upscale Chinese dim sum restaurant for lunch. When I was placing an order for eight steamed baskets just for the two, she questioned what I was thinking. I said to Diana, “You are my guest and I want to introduce to you a dim sum feast! Just enjoy, if we have leftovers, we’ll have a doggy bag meal!”  Not forgetting when it was my turn to visit her country, I was also served a feast—the concept in Argentina being a very big piece of barbecued meat with potato or fries. Yes, it’s a very different culture and that’s why eating and food travel have become a celebration of cultural diversity.

Le 1 Place Vendome

Fine dining is alive and well in France

Recently I’ve read various articles published in several cities about whether or not fine dining is dying or dead. Personally, I do not think fine dining is dead—far from it. But some cities definitely go through phases.

In Paris and the rest of France, there are many upscale restaurants with good linens, beautiful china, silverware and crystal, all demonstrating that the fine dining business is successful and going strong. Personally, I still very much like traditional dining, including the whole process of getting dressed up, sitting in a beautiful, elegant dining room in a formal setting for several hours while enjoying the ambience and a quiet conversation with your dinner companion(s). In that respect, I think I am still old school. My recent dining experience at Paul Bocuse L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges in Lyon, proves that when you make the right choice, fine dining is always memorable and very much alive. I had to make my reservation weeks ahead of my trip and the restaurant filled up fast!

The bottom line—the dining scene is always evolving but quality food is quality food.  As the ethnic food scene continues to be a huge movement in cities around the world, ethnic diversity is influencing Paris’ culinary experience—but slowly!

So instead of presenting you with a list of best restaurants in Paris, I thought it would be more enticing to visit some of the fun, casual, trendy and up-and-coming eateries. I also wanted to shop at different gourmet food shops, specialty shops, and outdoor and indoor markets.  To be honest, I was just excited about spending more time exploring the city while I carry on indulging myself with epicurean delights!