France for the Soul and the Serious Foodie

Earlier in May, I travelled to France. The trip was rejuvenating and I proved to myself once again that traveling solo is good for the soul. The rainy and slightly chilly weather did not spoil my spirit although I could have packed some warmer clothing!

Of course, there are too many different and wonderful regions to visit in France. I have been to Nice, the Riviera and Paris on many vacations. Given the short time frame, I chose Lyon, Avignon and Provence, all relatively close to Paris.  I did pretty well with this itinerary. Bordeaux and Normandy both just have to wait.

I planned my getaway with one mission in mind— to delight myself with gourmet food as much as possible and let my self be open to new experiences.  I knew from the beginning that I wanted to visit Lyon, still considered France’s capital of gastronomy by many native French. As it turned out, the entire trip was far more than just a foodie getaway. Everything surpassed my expectations.

During the planning stage, my excitement led me to an overwhelming flow of resources from email links and printouts to recommendations by friends.  In the end, it was just fun traveling with a small map in my hand, discovering each place freely and spontaneously. Yes, getting lost and perhaps not eating such gourmet food every meal were all part of the package. But isn’t that what adventures are supposed to be? 

Our first stop, Lyon, a gastronomical destination

The first day in Lyon, I shopped and ate at famed Les Halles, an indoor food market that now bears Paul Bocuse’s name.  This is truly a pilgrimage every foodie should make, with its nearly five dozen stalls and restaurants that sell everything from cheese, smoked salmon, seafood, charcuterie, foiegras and other delicacies.

I’m not going to get into the debate of whether or not Lyon still lives up to its billing at the food capital of France. All that mattered to me was to dine at Paul Bocuse, also known as L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges. Three Michelin Star Chef, Daniel Boulud, also a native of Lyon, refers to this restaurant as “the Sistine Chapel of French Cooking”.  As spontaneous as I can be, I did book a reservation two months ahead of my trip.  Upon arrival on a very rainy day, the moment I got out of the taxi, I was escorted by a ground staff to the main entrance of a palace-like restaurant, and then greeted by the entire team of staff.

With a reservation earlier than the arrival time for most patrons, I was able to enjoy the elegant ambience of the main dining room.  The service by multiple waiters, the sommelier, head waiter and the manager was impeccable.  All the dishes I ordered were scrumptious and beautifully presented.  My starter was the world famous Soupe aux truffles noires V.G.E.—first created for a presidential dinner at the l’Elysée Palace in 1975.  For the seafood course, I ordered Filet aux sole avec nouilles (noodles) Fernand Point; and then the meat course, Rognon de veau á la dijonnaise’ (veal kidneys).  The dessert course was presented with flair, featuring a cheese cart and a large selection of mouthwatering French desserts, and chocolates.  During all the courses, trolleys are moved between the tables for presenting and carving the food. What a beautiful Lyon gastronomy experience!

Shopping and fashion in Lyon

There's no lack of upscale and luxury brands designer shops in Lyon and you’ll find most are concentrated on rue Edouard Herriot. For mainstream North American brands and chains, two good streets to visit are rue de la Republique and rue Victor Hugo.

For myself, I like stylish and trendy clothing without breaking the bank. Here are a few areas you may like to explore: Close to Bellecour, rue Auguste Comte is a fashion street with reasonable priced shops and others that are pricier. Rue du Plat has a few nice shops, "Zadig et Voltaire" (a permanent outlet) and a good bookshop specializing in travel with a nice web café,  Rue Emile Zola / rue des Archers is a lovely shopping area, mostly cheap but you can find a few reasonably priced items. In the Jacobins area, I found a couple of very nice shops on rue de l'Ancienne Préfecture, which carries original brands and rue de Brest, where there are a lot of medium priced shops. Close to place des Terreaux, rue Leynaud and passage Thiaffait are good for young local designers (créateurs).

Walking and climbing medieval Lyon

Lyon isn’t just about food and shopping, much as I love both!  I spent a whole day exploring Old Lyon – the medieval neighborhood, which is also a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.  The most memorable moment was climbing up the flights of stairs; and then making my way on a winding road and a steep hill until I finally reached Basillique Notre Dame de Fourviére.  Perched on a Fourviére hilltop above old Lyon, the view was simply breathtaking.

Next stop, Avignon

There was just too much I learned from this trip to pack into one blog! Stay tuned and I’ll post part two, where I explore Avignon, Provence and get reacquainted with Paris again, this time by Métro!

Recommendations

Hotel in Lyon: Le Royal Hotel   www.lyon-hotel-leroyal.com

Restaurants and gastronomy

L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocusehttp://www.bocuse.fr/auberge-bocuse.aspx

Daniel et Denise http://www.daniel-et-denise.fr/

Food Hall/Indoor Food Market of Lyon: Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocusehttp://www.halles-de-lyon-paulbocuse.com/

Where to find fresh local produce and markets in Lyon

http://lyon.angloinfo.com/information/lifestyle/shopping/markets

There are many other great ways to see France. Would you ever consider taking a bistro biking tour, a walking tour or an enchanting River Cruise for itineraries include Burgundy & Provence, Paris & Normandy, Bordeaux, Vineyards & Chateaux.

Please feel free to drop us a line at info@redlettergetaways.com , we will be delighted to provide you with a few ideas to plan your next getaway.

Follow my travels and my eating and cooking adventures - Facebook , Twitter , Instagram , Tumblr.